When it comes to woodwork renovation, you can roll up your sleeves, pull out your wallet or just pretend that moldy gray/black teak is the new teal. The big decision however, is just how overboard you really need to go in order to look at your favored floating asset, and nod approvingly at how she looks. The answer varies from owner to owner, and the marine coatings industry has developed products to meet every expectation.
Those who roll up their sleeves, resolute in their belief that spring days spent working hard in the boatyard are a welcome alternative to winter, usually have a few interesting tricks up those sleeves. The first is recognition that a nice picnic lunch can counterbalance a boat bag full of scrapers, sandpaper and the sander that will become all too familiar. In fact, Boatyard Zen is linked to ritual and reward, and only your kids are smart enough to know that sanding, like grass cutting, isn’t all that much fun. So, unless you’re a boat-work loving masochist, you may want to take heed of the following tricks of the trade and ensure that you brightwork rejuvenation efforts fall into a “work smarter not harder” routine.
Before we delve into the “how- to” aspects of a brightwork makeover, let’s back up and look at the options available. The minimalist attitude holds that teak is a self-protecting, rot-resistant hardwood, that when left alone develops its own protective, oxidized, gray surface. The problems associated with this approach include the deterioration of glue joints and bung plug seals over fasteners, which accelerates corrosion and causes glue joints to fail. Another important factor is the issue of aesthetic appeal, and the human eye prefers honey-colored varnished teak over gray weathered wood. Unfortunately, a traditional yacht-quality varnish routine entails serious sanding and six to 11 coats of painstakingly applied varnish. When artfully executed, the results exude a deep, glossy luster that reflects like a mirror, and often carries yard bills packing an equal impact.
The good news is that there’s a cost-effective middle ground for the do-it-yourselfer, and for those who would rather pay to have the job done. At the heart of this midway route between the classic yacht standard and a workboat finish lie some new coating materials and approaches to brightwork. The right choice for your boat depends upon how much woodwork exists on deck and how concerned you are about the quality of the finish. The big breakthrough in coating technology has been in the softer but durable high-build wood finishes like Sikken’s Cetol. A good friend once said that from 10 yards away, softer wood finishes give you 80-percent of the appearance of a top-of-the-line varnish job for about 20-percent of the labor. I reminded him that most sailors usually needed to do a second application of the softer finish about halfway through the season. We both did the math and agreed that at the end of the year you’re still way ahead, especially for those who can accept a nice finish that’s not quite up to gold platter standards.
Whatever the course of action, the result will be a surface coating that protects the woodwork, fastener plugs and glue joints. Modern, softer, nonvarnish wood finishes aren’t thin watery sealers that soak into the wood, they’re high-build coatings that work like varnish but are not as tough and do not provide as much surface protection.
Whether you roll up your own sleeves or pull out the wallet, settle for a softer, easier-to-apply wood finish or want the “works” that comes in the form of a tough two-part urethane system, one thing remains common to all. That’s the need for careful preparation; a process that seals the outcome before the first coat is applied. Fortunately, the level of prep work for a softer, more translucent Cetol-type wood finish is much less than what’s required for a top-quality varnish job. The key issue being that, in boatyard jargon, time is money, and less of it spent on prep work equates to a better bottom line on the bill.
As an ardent DIY type of guy, I use a combination of products aboard my own boats and several different wood finishing techniques. For example, the coamings, handrails and Dorade boxes are traditionally varnished, while Wind Shadow’s toerail is sealed with Cetol. The woodwork belowdecks is finished with a “rubbed effect,” low-gloss satin varnish, and the solid teak cabin sole is regularly cleaned and wiped with a penetrating sealer.
Surface preparation All brightwork begins with the same unavoidable truth and that equates to a sanding and perhaps even scraping ritual. It’s a by-the-numbers process that may start with 60- or 80-grit paper and work through 100, 120, 150 to 220 for the final touch prior to varnish application (you can stop at 120 if a softer wood finish is used.)
Seriously deteriorated surfaces, with crazed, flaking varnish, may require chemical stripping, bleaching and scrubbing. Pros will often dry- scrape flaking varnish with a drag scraper prior to sanding, and in most instances a less caustic and user-friendly paint/varnish remover, such as Franmar’s Soystrip, or a heat gun can be used to loosen a deteriorated but stubborn varnish base. A wise trick of the trade is to round scraper blade tips to minimize wood gouging.
One of the toughest calls to make is whether or not to try to spot-repair old varnish and add additional coats rather than stripping it all off and starting from scratch. The answer to this dilemma is, “maybe.” Feathering out the edges of a few flaking areas can expedite the prep process, but if the rest of the varnish is also about to let go, the advantage of the shortcut will be short lived. On the other hand, once you have gone through the effort to remove the entire substrate, bleached out stains and sanded the surface flat, you face a multi-coat build-up process in order to develop a thick enough coating to do the vital flattening sanding step. The best way to make reasonably rapid progress is to scuff lightly or even avoid sanding altogether between coats two, three and four. Then, after the surface is dry and hard enough to sand without clogging the paper, block sand the surface with a more limited range of grits (120 to 220) in order to level the varnish prior to applying the finish coats. Use only a light scuff sanding between each of the last coats. If you carefully sanded the wood prior to applying any of the varnish the surface will be smooth and between-coat sanding will be much less demanding. Attention to detail during the wood prep phase pays off big time in the long run.
Be careful with how you use power sanders to speed up the job. Modern random orbital sanders with 3M Stikit discs are another pro trick of the trade, but it’s important to keep the pad flat and continuously moving in order to avoiding scalloping swirls or deeper cuts. By changing the paper often, you will eliminate clogs and increase your overall sanding efficiency. Small, palm-size vibrating sanders are great in corners, and simple hand blocks help to flatten the surface. The age-old practice of tearing a sheet of sandpaper in half and folding each into thirds remains standard practice among the pros.
Early stages of surface preparation are all about sanding endurance, but the final phase shifts to removing any signs that the sanding ever took place. This mega clean-up process requires a shift in mindset, and it’s best to sideline the strength and stamina persona in favor of a more dwell-on-details personality. The difference between a good varnish applicator and a great one is often a matter of how closely they look at their work.
The same level of commitment that staunched your sanding efforts now needs to be leveraged in the dust removal process. A good shop vacuum and a compressor to blow away the dust that collects in recesses help to speed up the cleanup process. Once the entire boat, as well as the woodwork itself, passes a drill sergeant inspection, it’s time to mask off surfaces adjacent to the woodwork. This facilitates the creation of a clean-cut separation between varnished and painted or gelcoated surfaces. Taking time to do a first-rate job taping the area around handrails and toerails keeps drips off the gelcoat or paint, and really pays off in
the long run.
Application Before a brush is dipped into varnish, a few more housekeeping rules help to ratchet up the chances for success. Remember that the closer you get to the final coat, the more significant the pre-application clean-up procedures become. I start with a close look at the brush I plan to use, which is more often than not a familiar badger hair bristle brush that provides an even flow of material and consistent varnish distribution characteristics. I use throwaway foam brushes for build up coats, but I prefer the handling characteristics of a natural bristle brush for the finish coats. Beforehand, I comb the bristles of the brush and check its suppleness and cleanliness by bending the bristles against my hand in an area where sunlight can illuminate any residual detritus. If the brush still seems dirty, I’ll re-clean it with the solvent/reducer recommended on the varnish can and allow it to dry before use.
Varnish shouldn’t be used directly out of the can because each time the brush is dipped into the material the contents can become contaminated with dust or debris transferred from the surface. Prior to application, varnish should be decanted into a paint cup and strained through a paint filter. It’s also a good idea to minimize the dust and other contaminants that may collect on a brush by keeping it covered when not in use. Just before you begin varnishing, the surface should be wiped with a tack rag. There are several schools of thought regarding the process. Traditionalists often use a conventional tack rag that’s basically cheesecloth saturated with a slightly sticky linseed oil that plucks dust and lint from the surface. There’s some concern that a bit of the sticky residue may be left behind on the surface may hamper adhesion. Most conventional oil and resin-based varnishes won’t be adversely affected, but some modern coatings aren’t as forgiving. This has caused many pros to opt for plain cheesecloth or a slightly damp cotton rag moistened with reducer, alcohol or even water. If you use a conventional spar varnish, traditional tack rags
work just fine.
The build-up process begins with a thin penetrating sealer coat that’s comprised of the regular varnish thinned 20- to 30-percent with the manufacturer’s recommended reducer. This should be a fairly miserly applied coat that leaves behind what appear to be dry spots and no sags or surface accumulation. Depending upon the temperature, it usually dries in a day and the results are anything but spectacular. This first thin coat lifts the grain and provides an essential anchor between the wood and the varnish layers to come. The surface will appear rough but even in color. If it reveals an odd, uneven surface with sanding marks, scraper gouges and signs of old varnish, you’ve got a problem that won’t get any better as more coats are added. A difficult decision must be made, either return to the sanding phase and do a better job of eliminating the imperfections, or carry on and accept a more rough and ready finish—a boat meant for action rather than posing pier side.
The good news for those with a Cetol or other wood finish aspirations, is that there’s much less perspiration in the prep and application process. Great results are gained from doing a less rigorous version of what’s been outlined above. You’ll be committed to less sanding, less obsessing over dust control and surface evenness and fewer coats are required. Compliments will accumulate about how good the woodwork looks, and as long as you’re not tied up next to one of Tom Morris’ goldplaters, or a painstakingly resurrected S&S classic, the alternative to varnish excels. As one well-respected master craftsman and professional wood finisher put it, “do-it-yourselfers should keep two things in mind. The first is to stop pointing out to anyone who looks at your work where the one sag or solo dry spot lies—they’ll likely never see them and there’s no upside to obsessing over minor flaws. And secondly, if you ever do achieve the perfect, flawless, mirror-glass finish on a fine teak cabin table or set of hatch boards, someone will undoubtedly ask if it’s Formica!”
Those who roll up their sleeves, resolute in their belief that spring days spent working hard in the boatyard are a welcome alternative to winter, usually have a few interesting tricks up those sleeves. The first is recognition that a nice picnic lunch can counterbalance a boat bag full of scrapers, sandpaper and the sander that will become all too familiar. In fact, Boatyard Zen is linked to ritual and reward, and only your kids are smart enough to know that sanding, like grass cutting, isn’t all that much fun. So, unless you’re a boat-work loving masochist, you may want to take heed of the following tricks of the trade and ensure that you brightwork rejuvenation efforts fall into a “work smarter not harder” routine. 
All brightwork begins with the same unavoidable truth and that equates to a sanding and perhaps even scraping ritual. It’s a by-the-numbers process that may start with 60- or 80-grit paper and work through 100, 120, 150 to 220 for the final touch prior to varnish application (you can stop at 120 if a softer wood finish is used.) 
Be careful with how you use power sanders to speed up the job. Modern random orbital sanders with 3M Stikit discs are another pro trick of the trade, but it’s important to keep the pad flat and continuously moving in order to avoiding scalloping swirls or deeper cuts. By changing the paper often, you will eliminate clogs and increase your overall sanding efficiency. Small, palm-size vibrating sanders are great in corners, and simple hand blocks help to flatten the surface. The age-old practice of tearing a sheet of sandpaper in half and folding each into thirds remains standard practice among the pros. 
Before a brush is dipped into varnish, a few more housekeeping rules help to ratchet up the chances for success. Remember that the closer you get to the final coat, the more significant the pre-application clean-up procedures become. I start with a close look at the brush I plan to use, which is more often than not a familiar badger hair bristle brush that provides an even flow of material and consistent varnish distribution characteristics. I use throwaway foam brushes for build up coats, but I prefer the handling characteristics of a natural bristle brush for the finish coats. Beforehand, I comb the bristles of the brush and check its suppleness and cleanliness by bending the bristles against my hand in an area where sunlight can illuminate any residual detritus. If the brush still seems dirty, I’ll re-clean it with the solvent/reducer recommended on the varnish can and allow it to dry before use. 
The build-up process begins with a thin penetrating sealer coat that’s comprised of the regular varnish thinned 20- to 30-percent with the manufacturer’s recommended reducer. This should be a fairly miserly applied coat that leaves behind what appear to be dry spots and no sags or surface accumulation. Depending upon the temperature, it usually dries in a day and the results are anything but spectacular. This first thin coat lifts the grain and provides an essential anchor between the wood and the varnish layers to come. The surface will appear rough but even in color. If it reveals an odd, uneven surface with sanding marks, scraper gouges and signs of old varnish, you’ve got a problem that won’t get any better as more coats are added. A difficult decision must be made, either return to the sanding phase and do a better job of eliminating the imperfections, or carry on and accept a more rough and ready finish—a boat meant for action rather than posing pier side.
The good news for those with a Cetol or other wood finish aspirations, is that there’s much less perspiration in the prep and application process. Great results are gained from doing a less rigorous version of what’s been outlined above. You’ll be committed to less sanding, less obsessing over dust control and surface evenness and fewer coats are required. Compliments will accumulate about how good the woodwork looks, and as long as you’re not tied up next to one of Tom Morris’ goldplaters, or a painstakingly resurrected S&S classic, the alternative to varnish excels. As one well-respected master craftsman and professional wood finisher put it, “do-it-yourselfers should keep two things in mind. The first is to stop pointing out to anyone who looks at your work where the one sag or solo dry spot lies—they’ll likely never see them and there’s no upside to obsessing over minor flaws. And secondly, if you ever do achieve the perfect, flawless, mirror-glass finish on a fine teak cabin table or set of hatch boards, someone will undoubtedly ask if it’s Formica!”