Virgin territory
The United States Virgin Islands offer the same beauty and charm as its neighbor British Virgin Islands, but without the crowds
The lonely anchorage was silent except for the symphony of tiny coqui frogs that crescendoed as night fell over the island of St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands. It was a far cry from an earlier vacation in the British Virgin Islands, where throngs of raucous vacationers poured from jet boats onto the shores of Jost Van Dyke, queuing by the dozens for painkiller cocktails, while boom boxes thumped loudly into the night.
For 25 years Dream Yacht Charters has been “inspiring people around the world to explore the ocean” with dozens of bases worldwide. Our crew of six had picked up a catamaran the day before from the company’s base at Compass Point Marina on St. Thomas. And the boat was in fact a dream: a palatial Lagoon 46 with four cabins with en suite heads, a full galley, and oodles of space to hang out and relax.
After the perfunctory boat check, chart briefing and provisioning we escaped the docks and wound our way around the point, through rocks and cays, between small islands and into open waters. It was an invigorating hour-long jaunt to our first destination, the mooring field at Caneel Bay on the northwest end of St. John Island. Unlike the BVI, there were plenty of mooring balls available, so we set our sights on a quiet, out-of-the-way spot.
Our first attempt to pick up the ball was a bit of a flop. Aside from my co-skipper Capt. Marie Rogers, none of our crew were sailors. In fact it was truly a “virgin” sail for most. So we embarked on a quick training session, went around again, and picked it up with aplomb. Our crew was an enthusiastic hodge-podge of friends from various spheres of life: my cousin Kat, childhood friend Marlene, and colleague Carrie, plus Marie and her friend Jodi, who was eager to sink her teeth into every aspect of sailing and navigation.
Marie is a sailor and adventurer, certified instructor and recipient of several awards for her drive to enhance inclusivity in the sport of sailing. Illustrious company indeed. With Marie’s knowledgeable but gentle guidance our crew would become skilled and confident.
“What a thrill to be part of an all-women crew that was pleasantly self-sufficient,” she said, “and to be in the Caribbean, plunging into that uniquely beautiful culture and natural environment.”
After a leisurely day, tasty dinner on board, and spectacular sunset, we spent several hours on the bow watching the stars … too many hours in fact, so our yoga session the next morning was delayed. By the time we rallied, although it was early December and frosty at home, the Caribbean sun was beating relentlessly on the foredeck. So we retreated to the spacious cockpit, protected by the cabintop, and got our zen on. Then there was more fun in the sun. A handful of crew took a dinghy excursion to the VINP Visitors Center at Cruz Bay to check out the exhibits and information desk. After getting pointers on hikes and snorkeling spots, our reconnaissance party returned with the obligatory bag of ice and we soon set sail for our next destination.
It was hard to imagine that two centuries ago this island was barren, most of the timber stripped due to the sugarcane and cotton production that dominated the 20 square miles of St. John Island for nearly two centuries. Over the years as the islands changed hands uprisings, emancipation, droughts and hurricanes had led to these plantations being abandoned and the mountainous island reverting to lush forest.
We had another lazy morning and discovered our few neighbors in the anchorage had already set sail, which was fine with us. We had this gorgeous playground to ourselves for more swimming, snorkeling, paddleboarding, kayaking and strolling the secluded beach. There was no need to sidestep sprawled bodies, coolers and frisbee games through the sand like the BVIs: the beach was all ours.
The next morning our plan was to sail to Magens Bay on St. Thomas, a great chance to shake out the sails on a 20-mile run. But an hour down island Reef Bay tempted us with its wedge of crystalline water, rimmed with frothy coral reefs. There are two-day balls at the point of the bay and we picked one up with ease. Alas the seas were a bit rough for snorkeling, and likewise made the beach landing frisky. It wasn’t without help from a vacationing angler Cory, and NPS volunteer Alistair, along with mighty Marlene’s strength, that we launched the dinghy through the surf. Still several of our crew had a chance to tackle the trail past the ruins of the Sugar Mill and up at the petroglyphs near a small waterfall.
“This trip was something totally new and different for me. But I knew you would never steer me wrong,” she punned.
The leg from Reef Bay to Magens Bay was another 14 miles and once underway we were able to hoist our sails and enjoy a stretch in the cool trade winds. The weather had been spectacular the entire week, our only rain was at night when we closed the hatches and enjoyed the efficient air-conditioning system in the spacious boat.
According to the slick travel magazines Magens Bay is one of the top 10 beaches in the world. Halfway down the northern shore of St. Thomas this wide horseshoe shaped cove opens to the northwest, promising calm waters. The bay stretches roughly 1-half-mile wide, past 2 miles of verdant hills to a swathe of sandy beach at the end. We had been warned to steer clear of the shallow middle of the bay, but our catamaran drew just over 4 feet so it was no concern. In fact Don, on a neighboring Virgin Islands Sailing School yacht, pointed out where to anchor at the edge of the shoal. Everywhere we went the local sailors and residents were over-the-top friendly and helpful.
Fairchild’s Beach Bar stood at the northeast corner and was open for breakfast and lunch: perfect timing, as you don’t want to be ashore when the sun sets and insects come out. We stayed two nights here frolicking in the water and exploring ashore. The 13-mile-long mountainous island showcases the delightful mélange of heritage, languages, cultures and cuisine of the USVI. It’s the only place in the US where cars are driven in the left lane. The climate is perfection, with average winter temperature of 77 degrees and average summer temp of 82 degrees. And for the tropics it is relatively dry.
“My favorite parts of our adventure were the gorgeous scenery and looking at the stars at night,” said Marlene, “but mostly I just loved the women I was sailing with, I have so much admiration for everyone.”
“This was truly a trip of a lifetime,” Carrie added. Each of us knew only one other person before we met at the boat, yet, she continued, “we all immediately meshed so well and jumped in to become a perfect team for this glorious week of sailing.”
Charter tips
Dream Yacht Charters provided an excellent vessel and courteous service at their Compass Point Marina base. They offer bareboat charters, an option to hire a skipper, and the ability to book a cabin on a scheduled charter. Inquire at www.DreamYachtCharter.com
Provision at Food Center, a 20-min. walk from the base and quick taxi ride back. Pick up last-minute goods and private stashes of beverages at the small Marina Market in the harbor.
An Hour Late eatery has great breakfasts and lunch; visit the Dive Bar for casual dinner and cocktails. Both are cash only but you can settle up your tab on Venmo.
While you wait: visit DYC’s airconditioned storefront to stow luggage and keep cool.
Bring a handheld VHF to communicate between the mothership and crew ashore or in the dinghy.
Invest in a cruising guide ahead of time to save time planning your destinations and activities, and refer to underway.
Only reef-safe sunscreen is allowed in the USVI waters.
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